VIBRATION ANALYSIS OF CYLINDRICAL THIN SHELL

Monday 13 June 2011

CETRIFUGAL PUMP


                   CETRIFUGAL PUMP

A centrifugal pump is a rotodynamic pump that uses a rotating impeller to increase the pressure of a fluid. Centrifugal pumps are commonly used to move liquids through a piping system. The fluid enters the pump impeller along or near to the rotating axis and is accelerated by the impeller, flowing radially outward into a diffuser or volute chamber (casing), from where it exits into the downstream piping system. Centrifugal pumps are used for large discharge through smaller heads.

How it works

Like most pumps, a centrifugal pumps converts mechanical energy from a motor to energy of a moving fluid; some of the energy goes into kinetic energy of fluid motion, and some into potential energy, represented by a fluid pressure or by lifting the fluid against gravity to a higher level.
The transfer of energy from the mechanical rotation of the impeller to the motion and pressure of the fluid is usually described in terms of centrifugal force, especially in older sources written before the modern concept of centrifugal force as a fictitious force in a rotating reference frame was well articulated. The concept of centrifugal force is not actually required to describe the action of the centrifugal pump.
In the modern centrifugal pump, most of the energy conversion is due to the outward force that curved impeller blades impart on the fluid. Invariably, some of the energy also pushes the fluid into a circular motion, and this circular motion can also convey some energy and increase the pressure at the outlet. The relationship between these mechanisms was described, with the typical mixed conception of centrifugal force as known as that time, in an 1859 article on centrifugal pumps, thus
       
                                                                                A centrifugal pump uses a spinning "impeller,"
                                                                    which normally has backward-swept blades
                                                                        that directly pushes water outward.

The statement "the mass of water ... must necessarily exert a centrifugal force" is interpretable in terms of the reactive centrifugal force—the force is not an outward force on the water, but rather an outward force exerting by the water, on the pump housing (the volute) and on the water in the outlet pipe. The outlet pressure is a reflection of the pressure that applies the centripetal force that curves the path of the water to move circularly inside the pump (in the space just outside the impeller, the exterior whirlpool as this author calls it). On the other hand, the statement that the "outward force generated within the wheel is to be understood as being produced entirely by the medium of centrifugal force" is best understood in terms of centrifugal force as a fictional force in the frame of reference of the rotating impeller; the actual forces on the water are inward, or centripetal, since that's the direction of force need to make the water move in circles. This force is supplied by a pressure gradient that is set up by the rotation, where the pressure at the outside, at the wall of the volute, can be taken as a reactive centrifugal force. This is typical of 19th and early 20th century writing, to mix these conceptions of centrifugal force in informal descriptions of effects such as that in the centrifugal pump.

Differing conceptions and explanations of how a centrifugal pump works have long engendered controversy and animadversion. For example, the American Expert Commission sent to the Vienna Exposition in 1873 issued a report that included observations that "they are misnamed centrifugal, because they do not operate by centrifugal force at all; they operate by pressure the same as a turbine water wheel; when people understand their method of operating we may expect much improvement." John Richards, editor of the San Francisco-based journal Industry, in his in-depth essay on centrifugal pumps, which also downplayed the significance of centrifugal force in the working of the pump, remarked

            

                                             
John Richards's drawing of a theoretical shape for the volute casing around the impeller, which he calls a "mistake" due to the constriction at a

Vertical centrifugal pumps

Vertical centrifugal pumps are also referred to as cantilever pumps. They utilize a unique shaft and bearing support configuration that allows the volute to hang in the sump while the bearings are outside of the sump. This style of pump uses no stuffing box to seal the shaft but instead utilizes a "throttle Bushing". A common application for this style of pump is in a parts washer.

Multistage centrifugal pumps

1) A centrifugal pump containing two or more impellers is called a multistage centrifugal pump. The impellers may be mounted on the same shaft or on different shafts.
2) If we need higher pressure at the outlet we can connect impellers in series.
3) If we need a higher flow output we can connect impellers in parallel.
4) All energy added to the fluid comes from the power of the electric or other motor force driving the impeller.

Energy usage

The energy usage in a pumping installation is determined by the flow required, the height lifted and the length and friction characteristics of the pipeline. The power required to drive a pump (Pi), is defined simply using SI units by:
                                           Pi = ρ g Q H / η

Where:
Pi is the input power required (W)
ρ is the fluid density (kg/m3)
g is the standard acceleration of gravity (9.80665 m/s2)
H is the energy Head added to the flow (m)
Q is the flow rate (m3/s)
η is the efficiency of the pump plant as a decimal
The head added by the pump (H) is a sum of the static lift, the head loss due to friction and any losses due to valves or pipe bends all expressed in metres of fluid. Power is more commonly expressed as kilowatts (103 W) or horsepower (multiply kilowatts by 0.746). The value for the pump efficiency η may be stated for the pump itself or as a combined efficiency of the pump and motor system.
The energy usage is determined by multiplying the power requirement by the length of time the pump is operating.

Problems of centrifugal pumps

·        Cavitations—the NPSH of the system is too low for the selected pump
·        Wear of the Impeller—can be worsened by suspended solids
·        Corrosion inside the pump caused by the fluid properties
·        Overheating due to low flow
·        Leakage along rotating shaft
·        Lack of prime—centrifugal pumps must be filled (with the fluid to be pumped) in order to operate
·        Surge
Centrifugal pumps for solids control
An oilfield solids control system needs many centrifugal pumps to sit on or in mud tanks. The types of centrifugal pumps used are sand pumps, submersible slurry pumps, shear pumps, and charging pumps. They are defined for their different functions, but their working principle is the same.

Priming

Most centrifugal pumps are not self-priming. In other words, the pump casing must be filled with liquid before the pump is started, or the pump will not be able to function. If the pump casing becomes filled with vapors or gases, the pump impeller becomes gas-bound and incapable of pumping. To ensure that a centrifugal pump remains primed and does not become gas-bound, most centrifugal pumps are located below the level of the source from which the pump is to take its suction. The same effect can be gained by supplying liquid to the pump suction under pressure supplied by another pump placed in the suction line.


PREPARATION OF SOAP

PREPARATION OF SOAP

Chemistry and Manufacture

Laundry And Cleaning :
Preparation of soap cold process method is used for the production of toilet soaps and washing laundry. In this way the process omylivaniya done without boiling fats with caustic lye. All of these soaps are prepared with coconut and palm kernel oil, which have the ability saponify in the cold with stirring e strong alkali metal. Added in small amounts of other fats (lard, palm oil, rosin, etc.) in the presence of coconut and palm kernel oils also have the ability to omylivatsya in the cold. When cooking in this manner should be washed serious attention paid to the temperature pribavlyaemyh fats, as well as the exact amount required for saponification of caustic alkalis. Here are recipes for some of the main varieties, production of toilet soaps is discussed below.

Coconut Soap :
Coconut Oil 10 kg
Sodium Hydroxide Solution at 36 ° Bome 10 kg
Salt 18 ° to Bome to 10 kg
Sodium silicate 30 ° Bome 12 kg

Spreading coconut oil and when it has cooled to 38 °, with constant stirring, pour a thin stream of 6 kg of sodium hydroxide. The remaining 4 kg mixed with salt solution and added to the soap mass. Thoroughly mix and add a solution of liquid glass. When the masses take a homogeneous, with no lumps form, it is poured into molds.

Yellow rosin Soap
Sala 25 kg
Coconut oil 10 kg
Rosin 15 kg
Talc 10 kg
Sodium hydroxide solution at 38 ° Bome 30 kg
Melted fat and rosin and talc added. The mixture is stirred, cooled to 50 ° and poured into a barrel. Treated with sodium hydroxide (at a temperature of 20-22 °) and mix thoroughly with the entire mass. When the soap becomes a monotonous caseous mass, its draw it out in the form.
White Soap
Fat 30 kg
Coconut oil 20 kg
Sodium hydroxide solution at 38 ° Bome 27 kg
Talc 30 kg
Coconut oil 40 kg
Sodium hydroxide solution at 38 ° Bome 25 kg
Talc 12 kg
Soluble glass 37 ° for Bome 25 kg
Preparation - as above.

Marble Soap
Fat 5 kg
Coconut oil 15 kg
Sodium hydroxide solution 25 ° Bome 20 kg
Sodium silicate 37 ° for Bome 30 kg
Soap scraps 5 kg
Waters 4.5 liter
Color: Ultramarine 50г

Dissolve the soap scraps in the water and add ultramarine. The temperature of the ink mixture is brought to 50 ° C and treated with sodium hydroxide. Mix well and add water glass. Separately, melt fat at 35 ° rushed to the first mixture and mix thoroughly. When the soap curdle, pour into a mold and cover boards.

Rosin Palm soap
Rosin 10 kg
Palm kernel oil to 10 kg
Sodium hydroxide solution at 37 ° Bome 10 kg
Talc 2 kg

Spreading palm kernel oil and rosin are added. The mixture is heated until the resin not disperse. Separately heated solution of sodium hydroxide to 80 ° and add talc. It is well mixed and add cooled to 65 ° oil, mix well, cover the pot tightly and leave for an hour alone. Then, mix well all the soap mass and poured into molds.








HERB BATH SOAP COMPOSITION, FORMULA AND MANUFACTURING


Indonesia is famous for its rich spices. As a result of it all, Indonesia was colonized by the Portuguese, Dutch and Japanese, to take the spices for his own use and the remainder sold to countries that need it. Especially the Dutch results from the sale of spices used to stem the sea and build their country. This is a bit of the history of the Indonesian people, how great price and value of spices.

The benefits of spices in addition to the field of culinary, health as well as for the field of beauty (cosmetics). Spices beauty in various applications such as body scrub, body odor remover, etc. slimming.

Special to spice bath soap, spices work to tighten, smoothing and skin cleansers and body odor remover. Spices are a lot of grown up around us so easily in the can / be found. Spices are contained in the soap as an additive and has the advantage of the soap itself.
Incorporate materials into soap spice there are two ways of spices, dried and then ground into powder or spice it up in small slices and then boiled and filtered with a soft cloth to be taken just dilution.

Corn flour is the best choice to help open the pores of soap on the skin, then clean the excess oil on skin. Corn starch granules capable of "scratching" (Scrub), dirt and oils from the skin surface.

The composition of the herb soap making:

1. Coconut Oil 100 ml
2. NaOHq
3. Stearic acid
4. Spices to taste
5. 5 g corn flour
6. NaCl
7. Lemongrass oil to taste
8. Perfume to taste
9. Water

Equipment needed: container, thermometer and stirrer

Procedure of manufacture
1. A coconut oil in the container is heated about 95 degrees lift
2. NaOH + water in container B are heated less than 70 degree lift
3. (1) + (2) in the container B mix
4. Melt the stearic acid in the container A (former container no. 1)
5. (3) + (4) remain in the container B stir over heat
6. (5) + corn flour mix
7. (6) + NaCl stir
8. (7) + Spices stir and lift
9. (8) warm + Perfume
10. Ready to enter the mold; wait overnight to harden his own soap.

Wearing Your Own Bath Soap Reason :-

1. Homemade soaps not only clean, because the oil contains about 25% glycerin. Please note on separation of oil into fatty acids and glycerin. In the industry in the manufacture of soap using fatty acids while the glycerin sold separately because the price is more expensive. As a result, industrial soap can make the skin become scaly / dry when used for bathing. The function of glycerin can moisturize and soften the skin, as well as soothing and lubricate the skin cells.
2. Quality soap homemade soap which can exceed the purchase in the market, certainly cheaper homemade.
3. By making your own you can get what they want, good filler material, additional materials, shape, color, and fragrance.
4. Making soap itself is very fun and full of creativity.
5. That certainly makes it easy soap.

In some European countries and Russia there are many or show Soap. Workshop is a kind of soap to show home industry to customer / visitors to see first hand how the process of making soap from start to become soap. Spices provided so many kinds and each herb has their own goodness for the body and skin. Subscribers just choose the spices which, to put into the composition of soap (Source from a friend who had lived in Russia precisely in Moscow). From soap making ingredients, many ingredients of spices specially imported from outside the country.


1. -To make a BASIC WHITE SOAP, follow instructions for this recipe:
• 125 g caustic soda
• 500 mL water
• 750 mL coconut oil
• 5 teaspoons castor oil

1) Add caustic soda to water and stir until soda dissolves. The solution becomes hot so set aside until it is lukewarm and then add the oils. Stir for a few minutes until the mixture is well combined.
2) Pour into shallow mould lined with damp calico, cover and leave for 24 hours to harden. Cut into cakes and store for 6 weeks before use.









INTRODUCTION TO THE DIFFERENT
SOAP MAKING METHODS

Contrary to what most people believe, soap making isn't that hard to do if you are equipped with sufficient information about it. As chemists would put it, soap is what you get when you combine oils or fats with a strong alkali solution (more popularly called lye). This process is what soap makers call saponification.

So why is soap fit for cleaning dirt off our bodies you ask? Ask yourself this question. What happens when you use soap on a soiled surface? The soap "loosens" the dirt particles and makes it easier for rinsing. By analogy, soap molecules are like two-poled magnets. One end holds on to water molecules, the other end holds on to grease particles. The latter end makes it possible for those grease molecules to be dissolved in water, which under normal circumstances would be near impossible because water and oil don't mix.

Back to saponification. When people hear the phrase "soap making" they immediately associate it with lye. Quite frankly, essential soap making does involve the handling of lye but there are actually 4 basic methods of crafting soap. Two of which will require you to handle lye solution while the other two won't. Allow me to give you a quick overview of those methods.

Cold Process

This is probably the most commonly used soap making method. This involves making soap from scratch using fats or oils, and lye. It takes more time to create cold process soaps than it is to make soaps through the other methods. This method provides for a certain degree of freedom when designing recipes. The following are the Pros and Cons of cold process soap making:
PROS
• You have control over which ingredients to use in your soap.
• Your soap is made from scratch.
• You can create recipes that serve various purposes, like anti-acne soap or whitening soap, since you are allowed a bit of flexibility in the choice of ingredients.
CONS
• This method requires that you handle lye. You'd have to learn how to create lye solution and how to handle or store it safely.
• May not be so appealing to beginners since this process requires a LOT of utensils and materials to start.
• This method takes time to complete. Especially since you will need to wait for 2-6 weeks before it's safe to use your soap.
• More cleanup to do afterwards.
• Requires exact measurements of lye and fat amounts and computing their ratio, using saponification charts to ensure that the finished product is mild and skin-friendly.
• You need to use EXACT measurements of fat and lye and you also need to compute the right ratio between them. You'll need to learn how to use SAP charts and lye calculators to make sure that your soap is skin-friendly.

Hot Process

This is where the saponification stage in cold process is sped up by boiling lye and fat together at 80 to 100 degrees Celsius. The mixture is stirred as it is "cooked" until it goes through the various stages of saponification. Once ready, excess water is evaporated and the soap is poured into molds.
PROS
• Less cleanup to do afterwards (compared to cold process)
• The soap you make is ready more quickly.
• You use less amount of fragrance than you do with cold process.
CONS
• It's difficult to take out of plastic molds. You would have to modify your recipe and method in order to make your soap work well with plastic molds (i.e. use more oils).
• Again, you have to learn how to handle lye safely.
• Really requires attention to detail since you will have to be more careful as you "cook" the soap.
• You will have limited time to add colorants, additives and fragrances, and to pour soap into your molds.
Melt-and-Pour

This comes next to cold process in popularity among soapmakers since it is probably the easiest to make. Note that the term "melt and pour soap making" is in actuality a misnomer, since no actual saponification is observed in this method. In this process, pre-made bars of glycerin soap are melted in either a double broiler or a microwave oven in 30-second bursts. Once melted, colorants and fragrances are added then the soap is then poured into molds.
PROS
• No lye involved.
• Easy and inexpensive, it's a method that's great for soap making beginners.
• You only need a few ingredients to begin.
• No curing necessary. Your soap will be ready to use immediately after it hardens.
• You are given lots of freedom when it comes to aesthetics - in casting your soap and in adding fragrance to it.
CONS
• You have limited control over the ingredients in your soap. Your final soap is only as good as the soap base you buy.
• Some soap base manufacturers add chemicals to the glycerin soap you're using to make it melt better or to increase its lather. Your soap may not be as natural as you think it is.

Soap: What is it and where does it come from.

Until the early 1900’s, much of the soap used was made at home. Fats from cooking and butchering were saved until there was enough to make a batch of soap. This all changed in 1916 when a shortage of fats (a main ingredient in soap) occurred during World War I. As an alternative was needed, enterprising companies developed the first synthetic soaps called detergents.

With a wide variety of oils available today, making your own soap is once again very inexpensive, and a good choice for those concerned about quality, health related benefits, and the environment.

Successful soap making today is a result of a much better understanding of chemistry, experience, and a wider variety of ingredients to choose from. Today's soaps are milder and better for skin thanks to the availability of vegetable and plant based oils.
Chemically speaking, soap is a salt. An acid and a base react with one another and are neutralized to form a salt or soap. A more basic explanation is: oils or fats combine with Sodium Hydroxide or “Lye” in a process called saponification to produce soap.

Hand made soap retains extra glycerin, known to soften the skin naturally. Glycerin is one of the best known humecants (attracts moisture to the skin). It is often extracted during the process of manufacturing commercially made soap, then sold as a valuable by-product. Natural ingredients are rarely used in commercially manufactured soap. If used at all, it is sparingly. One of the best advantages of making your own soap is that you are in charge of quality control. You decide which ingredients to use and how much.

Animal versus Vegetable-based Soaps

Originally, all soap was made from animal fats — mainly lard from pigs and tallow from cattle. It was readily available and at the time no one questioned the use of animal by-products. Over time, new oils were extracted from vegetables, grains and nuts providing an alternative to animal oils.

Vegetable oil soaps are chemically superior and can be of higher quality than soaps made with animal fats. Vegetable oils are more readily absorbed by the skin while animal oils have been found to clog pores and aggravate certain skin conditions, such as eczema.

The Soap Process
Natural hand-made soap is not difficult to make, once you understand the basics. You can make a batch of soap in as little as one hour, depending on the formula.

The following is the basic formula for making all soap:
Fatty acid (oil) + Base (lye) = “A Salt” (soap) :
The oil or fat is heated gently. Lye and water are combined separately. When both ingredients reach the required temperature, they are combined. When the mixture becomes the desired consistency, it is poured into a mould. The bars are then removed from the mould after setting up (approximately 24 to 48 hours). They are restacked and allowed to “cure” or dry until hard. This can take anywhere from 3 to 8 weeks depending on the formula.

There are 3 keys to successful soap making :-

1. Accurately weighed ingredients.
2. A good formula.
3. Proper technique.

Cold Process Method: This process is widely used by home-based soap makers. The neutralization stage takes place during the moulding stage. Our kits follow this method.

Semi-boiled Method: After the soap mixture traces, heat is added using a double-boiler to cause the soap to neutralize before being moulded.

Full-boiled Method: This method is where all ingredients are prepared in one large container. Heat is added causing neutralization. Large commercial manufacturers use this method to achieve the by-product called glycerin.

Transparent Soap: This soap is made clear by adding solvents such as alcohol to prevent crystals from forming as the soap cools. Transparent soap is often referred to as Glycerin Soap. However, this is a fallacy as glycerin is not needed to produce a clear or transparent soap. This soap can be drying to the skin.

Melt and Pour Soap: Or also known a solid Glycerin blocks. Pure glycerin, animal or vegetable derived, is always liquid and can only be solidified by the addition of plastizer chemicals. To produce a foam, detergents are added. This method is simply making soap from soap and is more expensive than starting from scratch. Melt and pour soaps may have natural ingredients added to them but they are synthetically based.
Preservatives
A preservative is defined as something that protects against decomposition. However, nature has its own agenda and decay is inevitable. There are no preservatives, synthetic or natural, that can completely stop this process — they can only slow it down.

Oxidation occurs within fats/oils which causes rancidity and spoilage to occur. Carrot oil, Vitamin E oil, and Grapefruit Seed Extract are three natural preservatives that are recommended. They contain powerful anti-oxidants such as vitamin A, E and C, which can help prevent spoilage.

The formulas in this booklet do not require any additional preservatives, unless you choose to add an ingredient that is vulnerable to rancidity, i.e. fresh fruit or vegetable matter.

Equipment Needed
• One large stainless steel mixing bowl (the larger the better). This greatly reduces the amount of splatter leaving the bowl during the mixing process.
• One heat-resistant container that hold 2 cups (glass Pyrex works well) to mix Lye and water. Note: Using a large container may result in rapid heat loss and temperatures not reaching their goal.
• A container to heat oils. If using the stove, a stainless steel pot will do. If using the microwave, use a microwave-safe container.
• Candy or meat thermometer made of glass and stainless steel (having two works best — one for the lye and one for the oil).
• Protective wear: long sleeved shirt, pants, shoes (no bare feet), glasses and rubber gloves. Keep a bottle of vinegar nearby to neutralize lye spills.
• Soap moulds; plastic, cardboard, or wood (use wax paper to line, see “Soap Moulds”).
• Measuring spoons, pot holders or oven mitts, and plastic spatulas.
• Digital scale, accurate to at least two grams (if not using our kits).




Soap Moulds

Generally, you can use just about any type of plastic, wood, or cardboard as a soap mould. Do not use tin, aluminum, Teflon, or copper as they react with the lye. Candy and candle moulds may work well, too. If you want something simple, choose a square or rectangular container and cut the bars to size after your soap has set. Cardboard milk or juice containers work well as they are coated with wax.

To make round soaps try recycling a plastic bottle. Using an empty, clean, plastic pop or round shampoo bottle, carefully slice the sides of the bottle lengthwise. Tape sides using plastic packing tape to prevent leakage. Pour the soap mixture and let set for required amount of time. Peel tape back and release your soap, then cut the bars to a desired size. Set to cure as usual.

If you are having trouble getting your soap to release from the mould, try placing it in the freezer for two hours. This will cause the soap mixture to shrink from the sides and make removal easier.

To help with release, use vegetable shortening to grease your moulds. Cardboard or wooden moulds require a combination of waxed paper or freezer paper and vegetable shortening.

Tip: Line your moulds with brown freezer or butcher’s paper. Apply some vegetable shortening to the inside surfaces of your mould, lay in some freezer paper, shiny side up, and trim to fit. After removal, simply peel off the paper from your soap block the next day.

Rebatching into fancy moulds

Handmilling or rebatching soap after unmoulding is done to achieve greater medicinal benefits from ingredients like herbs and essential oils, to increase colour intensity, and to change the shape and texture of the soap.

Rebatching can be done after unmoulding by grating or chopping a soap bar and using water to melt it. As a general rule, combine one cup of grated soap to 1/4 cup of water or herbal infusion. Heat in a double boiler or use a glass Pyrex container to microwave. Heat gently, stirring constantly to help break down soap pieces and evaporate the water. Continue until all water has evaporated. Remove from heat and add optional ingredients i.e.: herbs, spices, grains, essential oils, creams or lotions, or carrier oils such as jojoba or shea butter.

Caution :
• Soap making is not recommended for children because of the potential danger that lye poses.
• Carefully read the warning label on the lye bottle. Lye is also known as caustic soda (sodium hydroxide)
• Use only pure lye granules — do not make the mistake of substituting drain cleaner. It contains other ingredients that you would not want in your soap.
• Be sure to keep the lid tight on the bottle of lye. Moisture in the air will weaken its strength and cause it to form lumps.
• Lye can be fatal if swallowed.
• Always wear rubber gloves and protective clothing, such as a long sleeved shirt and shielding eyewear when working with lye.
• Be sure to work in a well-ventilated area. Vapours released from the lye when it is first mixed with water are quite noxious, and can greatly irritate the lungs.
• Always have a bottle of vinegar close at hand. Vinegar will help neutralize the lye/water mixture if it happens to splatter on your skin.
• Lye can remove paint, so be careful not to let it come in contact with any painted surfaces. If lye, lye/water or even freshly made soap splatters on any painted surface, wash the area quickly with water and detergent. Rinse with clear water and wipe dry.
• Freshly made soap can burn and irritate the skin, therefore it’s best not to handle soap with bare hands for at least 48 hours. If your skin does come into contact with fresh soap, rinse your skin with vinegar immediately, then rinse with running water.
• Do not use any containers made of tin, zinc or aluminum. Lye will react with them.
• Recommended containers for mixing your soap include glass, plastic, stainless steel, enamel, and heat proof stoneware.

Testing your soap for proper pH level

You can test your soap for excess lye by applying a few drops of Phenolphthalein, a colourless, clear liquid. This chemical will turn pink or fuchsia in the presence of an alkali or an excess of lye. Soap that is to be used on the skin should be in the range of 7 to 9.5.
It’s the degree of pink that determines how alkaline your soap is. If a drop applied to the middle of a soap cutting turns deep pink or fuchsia then the soap should not be used on the skin. This soap however is great for the house and or laundry. If the drop stays clear or turns just the lightest shade of transparent pink then your soap should be fine.

If your soap was left uncovered while in the mould then the white chalk-like substance on the surface (soda ash) will also test alkaline. This can be trimmed off or avoided by applying plastic wrap to the surface right after pouring your soap into the mould.

Soap Making: Cold Process Method

Carefully read the sections on Caution, and Soap making: the procedure before beginning. One of the most common mistakes soap makers make is not weighing the ingredients carefully. This is a crucial step. Make sure you use an accurate digital scale to weigh your oils and your Lye.

Each premixed bottle of oil makes approximately 700g of soap. You can combine several bottles together to make a larger batch, however, it is a good idea when making soap for the first time to make small batches in order to learn as you go.

1. If making soap from one of our kits, set one of Cranberry Lane’s pre-mixed oil bottles in a hot water bath to liquefy contents (do not microwave these bottles). When the oil in the bottle becomes clear, pour into a 2 cup measuring cup. Be sure to get all the oil out of the bottle.
2. If making soap from the “Soap Formulas” guide, accurately measure all oils required for your soap recipe using a digital scale.

3. The Oil Phase. Gently heat oils using one of these two methods:
Stove Method: Use a stainless steel pot on the stove. Be careful not to burn oils.
Microwave Method: Use a microwave-safe container for your oils. Heat for 1 minute on high, then use 20 second intervals thereafter, until the required temperature is reached. (150°F, 65°C for our Basic or Deluxe Soap Making Kit).

Skill tip:
Heat oil to 10°C past the required temperature per formula. This will allow time for the lye to cool to its correct temperature. Always heat oils before mixing lye and water.

1. The lye/water phase. Pour room temperature distilled water (amount specified by formula) into a clean glass 2 cup size measuring cup. (If using our Basic, Refill, or Deluxe Soap Making Kit use 3/4 cup) While stirring, slowly add one bottle of lye. This mixture will quickly become very hot. Continue stirring until the water turns clear. Do not inhale the fumes. Place a candy thermometer in the cup, do not rest it on the bottom as it will give you a false reading — keep it somewhere in the middle. Let this mixture cool to the required temperature (refer to “Soap Formulas” for temperatures or use 150°F, 65°C for our Basic or Deluxe Soap Making Kit).

2. Pour the hot oil into a large mixing bowl. Use a plastic spatula to get all the oil out of the measuring cup. When both oil phase and lye/water phase have reached their required temperatures, slowly pour the lye/water mixture into the oil mixture while stirring in rapid, small circles.
Note: Always add lye/water to oil, not the other way around.

Continue to stir this mixture even after you have finished combining the two parts. Use a rapid, figure 8 pattern for stirring — being careful to incorporate the sides as well.

3. Stir the soap mixture until it “traces”. This is a term to describe the consistency or thickness, and the stage where the soap mixture is ready to pour into moulds. Tracing is easily recognized. Using a plastic spatula, drizzle a small amount across the top of the soap mixture. If a mark or trail remains for a few seconds before disappearing again, your soap has traced. The mixture should be the consistency of liquid honey or pudding before it’s poured. If your soap takes a little longer than normal, don’t worry — just keep stirring and it will eventually trace.
Tracing time for formulas can vary greatly; affected by room temperatures, humidity levels, and the speed of stirring. The tracing time for our formulas are based on normal room temperatures 20° to 23°C and average humidity levels.

4. After the soap traces, you can add your own herbs and essential oils (see pages 12-13 for some great ideas). Do not use perfume, synthetic fragrances, or extracts of any kind as the alcohol content may interfere with the soap making process.

5. After adding any additional ingredients, pour your soap mixture into the mould. Place a piece of clear plastic wrap on top to create an air barrier. Cover your mould with a blanket or towel and place in a warm location away from drafts and children’s reach. Let set undisturbed for the specified moulding time as stated in the formula for your oil blend.
Moulding tip: Grease your mould with vegetable shortening for ease of release later. Wear gloves during clean up and use hot water and dish soap to remove all residue from equipment.

6. When removing soap from the mould, wear gloves to protect your hands. The soap may be slightly caustic at this stage and can irritate your skin. Gently press the back of the mould. You may find twisting the mold slightly works as well — same technique as removing ice from ice cube trays. If your soap will not release easily, try placing the mould in the freezer for one hour. Freezing causes moisture loss and the soap will contract and pull away from the edges. Use a large knife to cut your soap into desired size bars. (Note: colour may fade in soap placed in the freezer)

7. After soap has been cut into bars, place them on a piece of wax paper or plastic wrap in a cool, dry, dark place to cure or age as specified in each formula. This time is necessary for the moisture to evaporate. Using the soap prematurely will lead to a spongy bar that may not lather or last very long. Wait for at least three weeks before finishing your bars (see section on “Finishing”.) After your bars have had a chance to dry or cure they will be able to with stand some rough handling. All good things take time! Write down the date of unmoulding and keep it with the curing soap as a reference.

Within 1/2 hour of pouring your soap into the mould you should notice it becoming hotter and turning dark in the middle. It can become quite dark and somewhat transparent. Bubbles may also come to the surface. This is a sign that your soap is properly neutralizing. It should stay hot like this for several hours before cooling and becoming light in colour again. Soap that is not properly insulated, cooled too much during tracing, poured into too small a mould, or with initial temperatures too low may not completely neutralize.

Making Liquid Soap

Because of the moisture content of a natural liquid soap, they can be susceptible to rancidity. Keep your liquid soap in a cool dry place and in an air tight bottle, preferably with a pump or flip top to dispense your soap.
1. Follow the procedure for making soap as specified in the formula, with one exception — no curing time.
2. After you have removed your soap from a simple mould, shave, shred or chop the soap into small pieces.
3. Place one cup of shredded soap in a double-boiler and add 3 cups of water. Stir continually on medium heat until melted.
Note: Soap may not completely melt. There may be small pieces that do not break down, simply strain them out.
4. When all the soap has melted it should be very runny. If not, add an extra cup of water.
5. Add four tablespoons of vegetable Glycerin and 1/2 tsp. of Grapefruit Seed Extract to help preserve your liquid soap. You may also add any essential oil to scent before pouring your liquid soap into bottles. Try adding 6 - 10 drops per 500ml. Your liquid soap should have a shelf life of approximately 6 - 8 months.

Our shampoo refill kit or shampoo recipe melts into liquid soap very easily. It has a large proportion of castor oil and makes a softer bar of soap. Soaps that are made with soft oils (oils that are liquid at room temperature) make softer soaps. Although initially softer, many of these soaps will still cure to become very hard bars.

Diagnosing Signs of Trouble in Soap
Trouble in Mixing Bowl

Your mixture does not trace after the time listed in the formula passes. You may have one of the following problems: incorrect temperatures, stirring too slowly, or too much water. Make sure you get all the oil blend and lye out of their containers. Measure water accurately to ensure the correct amount is used, stir mixture smoothly and consistently. The Perfect Blend™ kit should trace within 45 minutes.

Your mixture suddenly begins to streak. Your temperatures may have been too cold. If your soap still traces then quickly pour into molds.

Your mixture begins to curdle in the bowl. Synthetic fragrances may cause this. Small chunks form in the bowl while mixing. Your oils, lye, or both may have been poured too hot, or you are stirring inconsistently or too slowly. Soap mixture may still trace, but this mixture is unsuitable, leading to poor soap quality. Test soap after un-moulding.

Your mixture becomes, or is slightly grainy. Temperatures were either too high or too low, or your stirring wasn’t brisk and consistent. Maintaining temperature is very important for soap making. If your soap batch is split up and poured into small moulds after tracing, it may lose temperature to quickly and not completely neutralize.
Trouble Signs in Finished Soap
Your soap cracks or breaks when un-moulded or when being cut. You may have added too much dry ingredients, or traced your soap batch too long. See “Scents & Herbs to Try.”

Your soap has a thin layer of white on the surface. Your soap mixture has reacted to the oxygen in the air. This is only an aesthetic problem, refer to Step #7 in the “Soap Making, the cold process method” section to avoid this next time.

Your soap has hard, shiny chunks of solid lye, the rest of your soap is soft with a slippery liquid on the bottom. Your soap may have been poured into the mold before it had traced, or you stirred too slowly or inconsistently. Do not use these bars, they will irritate the skin.

You see air bubbles in your soap. You may have stirred too quickly, or for too long. Your soap has an excessive amount of white powder on top of the bars, is cakey, or crumbly. Hard water may have been used to dissolve the lye. You should not use these bars, as they may irritate your skin. Be sure to use only distilled water in the future.

Scents and Herbs To Try: How to Add your Favourite Ingredients
Remember to add all optional ingredients after your soap has traced. Note One batch refers to one bottle of any of our blended oils which make approximately 10 bars. If you are blending oils yourself, for the purposes of these instructions, one batch makes 700 grams of soap.

Essential Oils are defined as: "Highly concentrated essences extracted from portions of the plant." They have been valued and used throughout history for their therapeutic and scent qualities. You can add a wide variety of essential oils to your soap as long as they are considered safe. Essential oils are highly concentrated and are extremely powerful. Some are beneficial while others can be harmful. It is best to research an oil before using it to: a) determine the safety of the oil, and b) ensure that the oil(s) are compatible with your body type. For the soap maker, the only oils that have a habit of causing some problems (if added in high volume) are the citrus oils. They can disrupt the soap making process causing the soap to curdle. Limit these oils to no more than 2 tablespoons (30ml) per 700g batch.

Blending for scent qualities: Many scents today are the direct result of scent characteristics present in nature. When it comes to blending a scent there are three main scent classifications or "notes": top, middle, and base. The top note is the odour that is immediately perceived, generally uplifting and stimulating; i.e. orange. The middle note, or modifier, provides full, solid character to the scent. Clary Sage and Marjoram are often selected as middle notes. The base note, or end note, adds depth to a blend. It becomes apparent when the top and middle notes have faded and the last volatile components remain. Clove and Sandalwood are common base notes.

A general guideline for scenting your soap using top, middle, and base notes is: Top notes require 15 to 20 ml of essential oil per batch, for middle notes use 5 to 10ml of essential oil per batch and for base notes use 2.5 to 5ml per batch. Scenting your soaps is a personal choice and individual tastes will vary.

We recommend adding a fixative to your soap if you are adding essential oils. A common fixative such as Orris Root powder acts as a "glue" for the scent. We suggest adding 1/2 tsp of Orris Root powder per 700g batch.

Top Notes Middle Notes Base Notes
Mandarin
Tea Tree
Clove

Bergamot
Clary Sage
Cinnamon

Grapefruit
Anise
Oakmoss
Lemon/Lime/Orange
Rosewood/Rosemary
Cedarwood

Peppermint
Geranium
Sandalwood

Spearmint
Lavender
Patchouli

Rose/Jasmine
Black Pepper


Colouring your soaps: Using ingredients like clays you can achieve shades of pink and terracotta red. For earth purple use Ratanjot, for yellows use Annatto seeds, for greens use Chlorophyll, Stevia, Spirulina and Alfalfa powder, for peach and orange tones try Paprika. Try adding 1/2 tsp. at a time until you have achieved the desired shade.

Herbs, flowers and other additives: Most herbs and flowers lose there colour when added to first run soaps. It is always best to hand mill or rebatch your soap for such results. You can add other ingredients like grains and seeds either in a whole or ground state, be sure to limit their use to a maximum volume of 2 tbsp. per batch of soap.

Superfatting: You can add an extra carrier oil to increase the moisturizing capabilities of your soap. Do not exceed 2 tablespoons per batch. Oils such as Jojoba, Shea Butter, Castor, Avocado and Hemp are excellent choices for super fatting.

What to avoid: The following ingredients are not safe to add to your soap: Food colouring, fabric dyes, candle dyes, paints, or melted Crayons (even the non-toxic type),

Finishing Tips
When it comes to finishing and packaging your soap, the only limit is your imagination. Have fun with different techniques. Here are a few ideas to get you started.
Note: Allow your bars to cure at least 3 weeks.

To remove the rough outer surface of your soap, buff your bars with an abrasive cloth or piece of pure wool. You may have some bumps and lumps that can be removed easily with a knife. For a simple and quick design, take a small, serrated paring knife and shave off a thin layer of soap on one side. This will leave a wavy line, symbolizing water.

A simple way to decorate and wrap your soap is to use a piece of paper or cloth as a band around the soap. Allow approximately 1/2” of soap exposure on either side. It’s nice to see and smell your hand-made soap. Try paper bags, cloth remnants, postcards, or old greeting cards.

Personalize your bars with the person’s name on the label. “Suds for Bud”, “Barbara’s Beauty Bar”. Make guest soaps for a wedding with the bride and groom’s names and date. Make great stocking stuffers or basket fillers. How about candy cane (peppermint essential oil) scented liquid soap?

For an elaborate monogram, use a separate, smaller mould in the shape of a letter or design — choose a dark shade of soap for this technique. When your letter or design soap is set, remove it from its mould and place it upside down at the bottom of a larger mould. Then pour white or light coloured soap over the object and let it set. When the two have set together, carefully remove from the mould and polish.

Description of Ingredients :

Avocado Oil: Pressed from dried and fresh avocado. A stable oil with a built in antioxidant system. High in Vitamins A, B, and D, and rich in lecithin. Has a beneficial effect on dry skin and wrinkles.

Beeswax: Excreted by worker bees to construct the honeycomb. Has excellent skin protective qualities and increases hardness of soap.

Castor Oil: Expressed from the Castor Bean. Soothing to the skin, it is used widely in lipsticks, solid perfumes and bath oils. As a soap making oil it acts as a humectant.

Coconut Oil: Pressed from the dried meat of the coconut. Adds lather and moisturizing properties.

Cocoa Butter: Expressed from the roasted seeds of the Cocoa plant. Softens and lubricates the skin.

Distilled Water: The collected and condensed steam of boiling water.

Jojoba Oil: A natural liquid from the kernels of the Jojoba desert plant. Has a chemical composition resembling the skin’s sebum. Antibacterial characteristics. Excellent for dry skin conditions.

Lye: The solution of Sodium Hydroxide and water. Sodium Hydroxide or Caustic Soda is the strong alkaline base component of soap making.

Olive Oil: (Pomice grade) Made from the pressing of the olive fruit and pits. An inferior food grade olive oil but good for soap making.

Palm Oil: Extracted from the fruit of the palm tree. This oil is rich and viscous. Soothes and moisturizes dry skin.

Palm Kernel Oil: Extracted from the nut of the palm tree. Used in small proportions it adds hardness to soap and provides lather.

Shea Butter: From the nuts of the Bassia parkii tree in Africa. It is high in unsaponifiables and adds moisturizing properties to soap.

Vegetable Shortening: Hydrogenated Canola Oil. A inexpensive soft oil to balance the hard oils of coconut and palm.

Each of these recipes makes 1.5kg (3.3lbs.) of soap. A mould of these dimensions or that adds up to the same number when multiplied together will do. (6"x7"x2.5"deep) The wooden soap mould in the Moulds page of or on-line shopping section works very well.

Basic Soap Formula
oily to normal skin
Ingredients Temperatures & Times
598 g
296 g
30 g
58 g
150 g
368 ml Coconut Oil
Vegetable Shortening
Beeswax
Avocado Oil
Lye (6% discount)
Distilled Water Oil Temperature
Lye/Water Temperature
Cure Time
Trace Time
Mould Time 55°C (130°F)
55°C (130°F)
3 Weeks
15 Minutes
24 Hours

Olive & Palm
sensitive and normal skin
Ingredients Temperatures & Times
680 g
302 g
18 g
128 g
374 ml Olive Oil (pomace)
Palm Oil
Beeswax
Lye (6% discount)
Distilled Water Oil Temperature
Lye/Water Temperature
Cure Time
Trace Time
Mould Time 55°C (130°F)
55°C (130°F)
4 Weeks
25 Minutes
24 Hours
We have more soap formulas in a pdf file for you to download and print. You can download the free pdf reader from Adobe to open this file.



MAKING YOUR OWN HERBAL HAIR SHAMPOO


In 1990 I decided not to use the commercially made shampoos after reading Aubrey Hampton's book, "Natural Organic Hair and Skin Care." In this book Aubrey tells you how to read the label on any product that you put on your skin or hair.

Manufacturers are constantly using toxic chemicals in their skin and hair products and disregard their toxic effects on your body. This is easily seen in the list of chemicals that they use. Here are a few of these chemicals found in many product labels:

• Propylene glycol or glycol- a petrochemical used because it is cheap
• Cetearyl alcohol - emulsifier that can be synthetic or natural
• Methylparaben or propylparaben - typical synthetic preservatives
• Distearate - this is polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol which are petrochemicals.
• Isopropyl alcohol - used as a cheap solvent to carry synthetic oils.

Here is a natural shampoo that you can make. This formulation is something that I have been using for many years. First collect the following items :-

4 oz of castile soap with any scent is that available - plain, peppermint, eucalyptus. ½ oz of rosemary - stimulates the hair follicles and helps to prevent premature baldness ½ oz of sage - has antioxidants and keeps things from spoiling and is antibacterial ½ oz of nettles - acts as a blood purifier, blood stimulator, contains a large source of nutrients for hair growth ½ of lavender - controls the production of sebaceous gland oil and reduces itchy and flaky scalp conditions 2000 mg of MSM - provides organic sulfur to your scalp, which improves the health and strength of your hair. It also helps to drive herbal nutrient into the skin and follicles where they can do the most good.

One empty 8 oz plastic bottle, or any other empty shampoo or soap bottle. Mix the herbs in a mason jar, which has a lid. Boil 2 cups of distilled water. Add 3 heaping tablespoons of the mixed herbs into the boiling water. Pull the boiling water and herbs off the stove. Let the herb mixture sit for 30 - 40 minutes. Put the 2000mg of MSM into the herb mixture after 30 minutes of cooling. After 40 minutes and the MSM is melted, strain the herbal mixture into a bowl. Pour 2 to 2 1/2 oz of strained herbal tea into the 8 oz plastic bottle. Now, pour the 4 oz of castile soap into the 8 oz plastic bottle. Cap the bottle and shake to mix the ingredients.

The shampoo is now finished and ready for use. Use this as a base for all of the shampoos you make. You can add different herbs as you learn what these herbs do and how they help your hair. You can vary the ingredients according to your taste. But now you have a shampoo that has no additives that can harm you.

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PREPARATION OF SHAMPOO


Your hair needs extra care and protection to keep them shiny and silky. Regular use of shampoo not only makes your hair shiny but also reduces hair loss and dandruff. The commercial shampoos available in the market contain sudsing agents that break down the suds.

For this purpose, it is better to prepare your shampoo at home for better results. Preparation of shampoo is also cost effective.

Homemade Shampoos

Soapwart Shampoo
This Soapwart Shampoo is suitable for all kinds of hair types. For the preparation of Soapwart Shampoo you will require 2 cups distilled water, 2 teaspoons full Lemon Verbena or 2 teaspoons Catnip according to your wish and one and half tablespoons dried soapwart root.

Put soapwart in boil water and simmer it. Leave it for 20 minutes. After 20 minutes remove from heat and put herb on it. Allow it to cool. Strain the mixture and keep the liquid shampoo in a clean bottle. Use within 8-10 days for better results.

Herbal Homemade Shampoo
For the preparation of herbal home made shampoo you will need 1/4 cup of strongly brewed herbal tea and 8 oz liquid castile soap. Put the liquid castile soap in the herbal tea and stir it over low hit. Mix it thoroughly. Allow it to cool. Store it in a tight capped bottle.

Egg Shampoo
Egg shampoo turns your life less hair into shiny. To prepare Egg shampoo you need 1 egg, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, 1 tablespoon castile soap, 1 tablespoon olive oil 1/2 cup water or you can also use herbal tea and essential oil (optional). Mix all the ingredients. Your shampoo is ready. Store the shampoo in the refrigerator.
Neem shampoo
Take 1 kilogram of gram flour, 250 grams of sandalwood powder, 1 kg of shikakai powder and 4 to 5 cups of neem leaves powder. Blend all the ingredients thoroughly and store it in a capped bottle for future use. Before washing put 2 tablespoons of the mixture in a cup of water and then apply.

Methi-shikakai shampoo
You need 1 kg of shikakai, 250 grams of methi, handful of orange or lemon peels. Make a fine powder of all these ingredients. Before washing your hair, mix this powder with half cup of water and keep it for at least 2 hours.

Sandalwood shampoo
Ingredients required to make this shampoo are 100 grams of khus, 200 grams of reetha, 100 grams of charilla, 100 grams of amla, 100 grams of char, 200 grams of shikakai, ½ teaspoon of sodium benzoate, 8 teaspoons of sandalwood oil and 2 ½ liters of water. Mix Amla, Reetha, Shikakai, Khus, Char, Charilla with water for 12 hours. In the morning boil the ingredients. Strain the mixture and add sodium benzoate and sandalwood oil to it. Your Sandalwood Shampoo is ready

Lime shampoo
To prepare lime shampoo you will require 100 grams of char, 100 garms of khus, 100 grams of charilla, 100 grams of amla, 200 grams of shikakai, 200 grams of reetha, 4 teaspoons of lime juice, 8 teaspoons of glycerine, 1 ½ teaspoons of sodium benzoate and 2 ½ liters of water. Boil all the ingredients in water. Strain it and store in an airtight container.


Friday 10 June 2011

GLOBAL WARMING

GLOBAL WARMING


INTRODUCTION:
Global warming is the increase in the average temperature of the Earth's near-surface air and oceans in recent decades and its projected continuation.
The global average air temperature near the Earth's surface rose 0.74 ± 0.18 °C (1.33 ± 0.32 °F) during the 100 years ending in 2005.[1] The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) concludes "most of the observed increase in globally averaged temperatures since the mid-20th century is very likely due to the observed increase in anthropogenic greenhouse gas concentrations"[1] via the greenhouse effect. Natural phenomena such as solar variation combined with volcanoes probably had a small warming effect from pre-industrial times to 1950 and a small cooling effect from 1950 onward.[2][3] These basic conclusions have been endorsed by at least 30 scientific societies and academies of science,[4] including all of the national academies of science of the major industrialized countries.[5][6][7] While individual scientists have voiced disagreement with some findings of the IPCC,[8] the overwhelming majority of scientists working on climate change agree with the IPCC's main conclusions.[9][10]
Climate model projections summarized by the IPCC indicate that average global surface temperature will likely rise a further 1.1 to 6.4 °C (2.0 to 11.5 °F) during the 21st century.[1] The range of values results from the use of differing scenarios of future greenhouse gas emissions as well as models with differing climate sensitivity. Although most studies focus on the period up to 2100, warming and sea level rise are expected to continue for more than a thousand years even if greenhouse gas levels are stabilized. The delay in reaching equilibrium is a result of the large heat capacity of the oceans.[1]
Increasing global temperature will cause sea level to rise, and is expected to increase the intensity of extreme weather events and to change the amount and pattern of precipitation. Other effects of global warming include changes in agricultural yields, trade routes, glacier retreat, species extinctions and increases in the ranges of disease vectors.
Remaining scientific uncertainties include the amount of warming expected in the future, and how warming and related changes will vary from region to region around the globe. Most national governments have signed and ratified the Kyoto Protocol aimed at reducing greenhouse gas emissions, but there is ongoing political and public debate worldwide regarding what, if any, action should be taken to reduce or reverse future warming or to adapt to its expected consequences.

EFFECTS OF GLOBAL WARMING:
The predicted effects of global warming on the environment and for human life are numerous and varied. It is generally difficult to attribute specific natural phenomena to long-term causes, but some effects of recent climate change may already be occurring. Rising sea levels, glacier retreat, Arctic shrinkage, and altered patterns of agriculture are cited as direct consequences, but predictions for secondary and regional effects include extreme weather events, an expansion of tropical diseases, changes in the timing of seasonal patterns in ecosystems, and drastic economic impact. Concerns have led to political activism advocating proposals to mitigate, eliminate, or adapt to it.
The 2007 Fourth Assessment Report by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) includes a summary of the expected effects.



CAUSES
Components of the current radiative forcing as estimated by the IPCC Fourth Assessment Report.
Main articles:
Attribution of recent climate change and Scientific opinion on climate change.
The Earth's climate changes in response to external forcing, including variations in its orbit around the Sun (orbital forcing),[13][14][15] volcanic eruptions,[16] and atmospheric greenhouse gas concentrations. The detailed causes of the recent warming remain an active field of research, but the scientific consensus[17][18] is that the increase in atmospheric greenhouse gases due to human activity caused most of the warming observed since the start of the industrial era. This attribution is clearest for the most recent 50 years, for which the most detailed data are available. Some other hypotheses departing from the consensus view have been suggested to explain the temperature increase. One such hypothesis proposes that warming may be the result of variations in solar activity.
None of the effects of forcing are instantaneous. The thermal inertia of the Earth's oceans and slow responses of other indirect effects mean that the Earth's current climate is not in equilibrium with the forcing imposed. Climate commitment studies indicate that even if greenhouse gases were stabilized at 2000 levels, a further warming of about 0.5 °C (0.9 °F) would still occur.


GREENHOUSE GASES IN THE ATMOSPHERE
Main articles: Greenhouse gas and Greenhouse effect
The greenhouse effect was discovered by Joseph Fourier in 1824 and was first investigated quantitatively by Svante Arrhenius in 1896. It is the process by which absorption and emission of infrared radiation by atmospheric gases warm a planet's lower atmosphere and surface.
Existence of the greenhouse effect as such is not disputed. Naturally occurring greenhouse gases have a mean warming effect of about 33 °C (59 °F), without which Earth would be uninhabitable.[23][24] Rather, the issue is how the strength of the greenhouse effect changes when human activity increases the atmospheric concentrations of some greenhouse gases.
On Earth, the major greenhouse gases are water vapor, which causes about 36–70% of the greenhouse effect (not including clouds); carbon dioxide (CO2), which causes 9–26%; methane (CH4), which causes 4–9%; and ozone, which causes 3–7%.[25][26] Molecule for molecule, methane is a more effective greenhouse gas than carbon dioxide, but its concentration is much smaller so that its total radiative forcing is only about a fourth of that from carbon dioxide. Some other naturally occurring gases contribute very small fractions of the greenhouse effect; one of these, nitrous oxide (N2O), is increasing in concentration owing to human activity such as agriculture. The atmospheric concentrations of CO2 and CH4 have increased by 31% and 149% respectively since the beginning of the industrial revolution in the mid-1700s. These levels are considerably higher than at any time during the last 650,000 years, the period for which reliable data has been extracted from ice cores. From less direct geological evidence it is believed that CO2 values this high were last attained 20 million years ago.[27] Fossil fuel burning has produced about three-quarters of the increase in CO2 from human activity over the past 20 years. Most of the rest is due to land-use change, in particular deforestation.[28]
Recent increases in atmospheric carbon dioxide (CO2). The monthly CO2 measurements display small seasonal oscillations in an overall yearly uptrend; each year's maximum is reached during the Northern Hemisphere's late spring, and declines during the Northern Hemisphere growing season as plants remove some CO2 from the atmosphere.



The present atmospheric concentration of CO2 is about 385 parts per million (ppm) by volume.[29] Future CO2 levels are expected to rise due to ongoing burning of fossil fuels and land-use change. The rate of rise will depend on uncertain economic, sociological, technological, and natural developments, but may be ultimately limited by the availability of fossil fuels. The IPCC Special Report on Emissions Scenarios gives a wide range of future CO2 scenarios, ranging from 541 to 970 ppm by the year 2100.[30] Fossil fuel reserves are sufficient to reach this level and continue emissions past 2100, if coal, tar sands or methane clathrates are extensively used.[31]
Although it is difficult to connect specific weather events to global warming, an increase in global temperatures may in turn cause broader changes, including glacial retreat, Arctic shrinkage, and worldwide sea level rise. Changes in the amount and pattern of precipitation may result in flooding and drought. There may also be changes in the frequency and intensity of extreme weather events. Other effects may include changes in agricultural yields, addition of new trade routes,[69] reduced summer streamflows, species extinctions, and increases in the range of disease vectors.
Some effects on both the natural environment and human life are, at least in part, already being attributed to global warming. A 2001 report by the IPCC suggests that glacier retreat, ice shelf disruption such as that of the Larsen Ice Shelf, sea level rise, changes in rainfall patterns, and increased intensity and frequency of extreme weather events, are being attributed in part to global warming.[70] While changes are expected for overall patterns, intensity, and frequencies, it is difficult to attribute specific events to global warming. Other expected effects include water scarcity in some regions and increased precipitation in others, changes in mountain snowpack, and adverse health effects from warmer temperatures.
Increasing deaths, displacements, and economic losses projected due to extreme weather attributed to global warming may be exacerbated by growing population densities in affected areas, although temperate regions are projected to experience some benefits, such as fewer deaths due to cold exposure.[72] A summary of probable effects and recent understanding can be found in the report made for the IPCC Third Assessment Report by Working Group II.[70] The newer IPCC Fourth Assessment Report summary reports that there is observational evidence for an increase in intense tropical cyclone activity in the North Atlantic Ocean since about 1970, in correlation with the increase in sea surface temperature, but that the detection of long-term trends is complicated by the quality of records prior to routine satellite observations. The summary also states that there is no clear trend in the annual worldwide number of tropical cyclones.
Additional anticipated effects include sea level rise of 110 to 770 millimeters (0.36 to 2.5 ft) between 1990 and 2100,[73] repercussions to agriculture, possible slowing of the thermohaline circulation, reductions in the ozone layer, increased intensity of hurricanes and extreme weather events, lowering of ocean pH, and the spread of diseases such as malaria and dengue fever. One study predicts 18% to 35% of a sample of 1,103 animal and plant species would be extinct by 2050, based on future climate projections.[74] However, few mechanistic studies have documented extinctions due to recent climate change[75] and one study suggests that projected rates of extinction are uncertain.[76]

ECONOMIC
The projected temperature increase for a range of stabilization scenarios (the colored bands). The black line in middle of the shaded area indicates 'best estimates'; the red and the blue lines the likely limits. From the work of IPCC AR4.
Some economists have tried to estimate the aggregate net economic costs of damages from climate change across the globe. Such estimates have so far failed to reach conclusive findings; in a survey of 100 estimates, the values ran from US$-10 per tonne of carbon (tC) (US$-3 per tonne of carbon dioxide) up to US$350/tC (US$95 per tonne of carbon dioxide), with a mean of US$43 per tonne of carbon (US$12 per tonne of carbon dioxide).[72] One widely publicized report on potential economic impact is the Stern Review; it suggests that extreme weather might reduce global gross domestic product by up to 1%, and that in a worst-case scenario global per capita consumption could fall 20%.[77] The report's methodology, advocacy and conclusions have been criticized by many economists, primarily around the Review's assumptions of discounting and its choices of scenarios,[78] while others have supported the general attempt to quantify economic risk, even if not the specific numbers.
In a summary of economic cost associated with climate change, the United Nations Environment Programme emphasizes the risks to insurers, reinsurers, and banks of increasingly traumatic and costly weather events. Other economic sectors likely to face difficulties related to climate change include agriculture and transport. Developing countries, rather than the developed world, are at greatest economic risk.[81]

SECURITY:
In November 2007, the Center for Strategic and International Studies and the Center for a New American Security published a report highlighting the national security effects of climate change.[82] These security effects include increased competition for resources between countries, mass migration from the worst affected areas, challenges to the cohesion of major states threatened by the rise in sea levels, and, as a consequence of these factors, an increased risk of armed conflict, including even nuclear conflicts.




CLIMATE MODELS:
Calculations of global warming prepared in or before 2001 from a range of climate models under the SRES A2 emissions scenario, which assumes no action is taken to reduce emissions.
The geographic distribution of surface warming during the 21st century calculated by the HadCM3 climate model if a business as usual scenario is assumed for economic growth and greenhouse gas emissions. In this figure, the globally averaged warming corresponds to 3.0 °C (5.4 °F).
Global climate model
Scientists have studied global warming with computer models of the climate. These models are based on physical principles of fluid dynamics, radiative transfer, and other processes, with simplifications being necessary because of limitations in computer power and the complexity of the climate system. All modern climate models include an atmospheric model that is coupled to an ocean model and models for ice cover on land and sea. Some models also include treatments of chemical and biological processes.[62]These models predict that the effect of adding greenhouse gases is to produce a warmer climate.[63] However, even when the same assumptions of future greenhouse gas levels are used, there still remains a considerable range of climate sensitivity.
Including uncertainties in future greenhouse gas concentrations and climate modeling, the IPCC anticipates a warming of 1.1 °C to 6.4 °C (2.0 °F to 11.5 °F) by the end of the 21st century, relative to 1980–1999.[1] Models have also been used to help investigate the causes of recent climate change by comparing the observed changes to those that the models project from various natural and human-derived causes.
Current climate models produce a good match to observations of global temperature changes over the last century, but do not simulate all aspects of climate.[64] These models do not unambiguously attribute the warming that occurred from approximately 1910 to 1945 to either natural variation or human effects; however, they suggest that the warming since 1975 is dominated by man-made greenhouse gas emissions.
Global climate model projections of future climate are forced by imposed greenhouse gas emission scenarios, most often from the IPCC Special Report on Emissions Scenarios (SRES). Less commonly, models may also include a simulation of the carbon cycle; this generally shows a positive feedback, though this response is uncertain (under the A2 SRES scenario, responses vary between an extra 20 and 200 ppm of CO2). Some observational studies also show a positive feedback.
The representation of clouds is one of the main sources of uncertainty in present-generation models, though progress is being made on this problem.[68]
Put this four-point plan into action and we can drastically cut global warming pollution.
We have solutions in hand right now to drastically cut global warming pollution. Act now -- put clean, innovative energy technologies to use, and enact policies to encourage their rapid, widespread adoption -- and we can stop global warming in its tracks. Instead of nearly doubling U.S. global warming pollution by 2050, we can cut it by more than half using today's technology. And with the proper incentives in place, even more innovative solutions will emerge along the way, leading to even bigger reductions.
This four-point plan is how we get started.
"In my view, climate change is the most severe problem that we are facing today -- more serious even than the threat of terrorism."
With this warning to an international science meeting in February 2004, David A. King, Chief Scientific Advisor to the British Government, brought the issue of global warming into sharp focus.
The World View of Global Warming project is documenting this change through science photography from the Arctic to Antarctica, from glaciers to the oceans, across all climate zones. Rapid climate change and its effects is fast becoming one of the prime events of the 21st century. It is real and it is accelerating across the globe. As the effects of this change combine with overpopulation and weather crises, climate disruptions will affect more people than does war.
The 2005 average global temperature equaled (within several hundredths of a degree) the record warm year of 1998, according to meteorologists. 2002-4 were nearly as warm, and the 11 warmest years on record have all occurred since 1990. In response, our planet has been changing with warming winds and rising seas. At the poles and in mountains, ice is under fire and glaciers are receding. Down into the temperate zone, change is rearranging the boundaries of life. The plants and animals with whom we share the planet are adapting and moving -- some even going extinct -- because they have no choice.
We six billion humans are being affected, too. Coastal towns are suffering from rising sea level, storms are getting stronger and 35,000 people died in European heat waves in 2003. However, we have choices to make to help correct and ameliorate global warming. This is a story of frightening scale and great urgency that is just beginning to be told. Please go to Actions to see what you can do now.
I began photographing climate change in 1999, about when scientists started to realize how great a change in temperatures is taking place in our time. Past earth temperatures left their mark in tree rings, glaciers and ancient lake and ocean sediments, and the record shows slowly decreasing temperatures over the last 2000 years. In that time there have been warm and cool periods, but nothing like the rise in temperatures in the past 150 years -- and no increase even close to the past 30. This research has created what has become the single most powerful icon of climate change, the so-called "hockey-stick" graph of temperatures. In 2005-6 it was subjected to intense re-analysis. Evidence of previous cool and warm periods has increased, but the rapid and sustained heat gain especially since the 1970s remains unparalleled in recent earth history.
In general global temperatures have risen since the 19th century industrial revolution. There is little scientific question the reason is a steep increase in atmospheric carbon dioxide -- CO2 -- from human use of fossil fuels. Methane, ozone, other gases and dusts have also increased greatly. The mechanism of our atmosphere is that gases like CO2 and methane trap some of the sun's radiation and hold it in the lower atmosphere, heating it. The natural greenhouse effect made the earth warm enough for life, but the effect is much higher now. Ice core records show that whenever CO2 has increased in the earth's past, so has temperature. The recent increase in atmospheric CO2 is 200 times as great as any previous change seen in the ice cores. The current level is 380 parts per million, the highest in more than 650,000 years. It shows no signs of decreasing.
This increase caused earth's average atmospheric temperature to go up about 1. degree F in the 20th century. Now, according to NOAA, the global warming rate in the last 25 years has risen to 3.6 degrees F per century. This tends to confirm the predictions of temperature increases made by international panels of climate scientists (IPCC). The ocean has actually absorbed most of the added CO2 and heat -- becoming warmer and very slightly more acidic. These increases, seemingly small, have a giant effect on weather, climate zones, plants and animals, sea life, glaciers and river flow -- and thus human life. My project and this Web site seek to document these changes. For more on past climate and today's weather, see especially the Paleoclimate and Weather sections.
FEEDBACK CYCLES IN GLOBAL WARMING:
One of the causes of global warming, or more generally, global climate change is increased atmospheric CO2 that comes from anthropogenic sources. Human activity is increasing the release of CO2 into the atmosphere by burning fossil fuels, burning forests, deforestation and destruction of the soil, along with other activities. This pulse of CO2 into the atmosphere is a perturbation and the earth system will respond with some changes. Our focus is to attempt to identify important responses and determine whether these responses will counter the increase in CO2 or temperature, or whether the response will exacerbate the change.
In a systems view of this system, we are looking for feedback cycles that are either positive or negative (Figure 1). A negative feedback cycle will resist change with compensatory flows in other parts of the system. Conversely, a positive feedback will accelerate the rate of change.


Figure1. Several possible feedback cycles for global warming. The
details are discussed in the text below.
• There is a negative feedback cycle involving CO2, temperature and algae.
 increased CO2 causes surface temperature to rise
 which leads to increased algae growth rates in the ocean,
 which depletes atmospheric CO2
 thus countering the rise in atmospheric CO2.
• There is a positive feedback cycle involving air temperature, CO2 and soil organisms.
 increased CO2 causes surface temperature to rise
 increased temperature causes soil organisms to respire faster
 faster respiration converts more soil organics to CO2
 thus accelerating the cycle of CO2 input.
• There is another positive feedback involving surface albedo of glaciers and temperature.
 increased temperature causes glaciers to melt
 the loss of reflective surface of the glacier leads to more absorption of sunlight
 more absorption leads to higher temperatures
 thus accelerating the melting and temperature rise
It is crucial that we understand these cycles and the potential interaction between these cycles.The negative feedback cycles will lead to controlling or minimizing temperature gain, whereas positive feedback processes will contribute to acceleration of the problem. If we are very lucky, there may be very strong negative feedback controls that will buffer human impact. If we are less lucky, a slight anthropogenic change may trigger a set or processes that will cause a shift in the processes that control surface temperature. In terms of resilience; if the overall global system is very resilient, human perturbation may be quickly fixed, on the other hand, once we cross a threshold (exceed the resilience) there may be a dramatic and essentially irreversible shift in the fundamental processes of the system.

Effects on agriculture
Main article: Climate change and agriculture
For some time it was hoped that a positive effect of global warming would be increased agricultural yields, because of the role of carbon dioxide in photosynthesis, especially in preventing photorespiration, which is responsible for significant destruction of several crops. In Iceland, rising temperatures have made possible the widespread sowing of barley, which was untenable twenty years ago. Some of the warming is due to a local (possibly temporary) effect via ocean currents from the Caribbean, which has also affected fish stocks.[102]
While local benefits may be felt in some regions (such as Siberia), recent evidence is that global yields will be negatively affected. "Rising atmospheric temperatures, longer droughts and side-effects of both, such as higher levels of ground-level ozone gas, are likely to bring about a substantial reduction in crop yields in the coming decades, large-scale experiments have shown" [103].
Moreover, the region likely to be worst affected is Africa, both because its geography makes it particularly vulnerable, and because seventy per cent of the population rely on rain-fed agriculture for their livelihoods. Tanzania's official report on climate change suggests that the areas that usually get two rainfalls in the year will probably get more, and those that get only one rainy season will get far less. The net result is expected to be that 33% less maize—the country's staple crop—will be grown.[104]


Climate change may be one of the causes of t

he Darfur conflict. The combination of decades of drought, desertification and overpopulation are among the causes of the conflict, because the Arab Baggara nomads searching for water have to take their livestock further south, to land mainly occupied by farming peoples.[105]
"The scale of historical climate change, as recorded in Northern Darfur, is almost unprecedented: the reduction in rainfall has turned millions of hectares of already marginal semi-desert grazing land into desert. The impact of climate change is considered to be directly related to the conflict in the region, as desertification has added significantly to the stress on the livelihoods of pastoralist societies, forcing them to move south to find pasture," the UNEP report states.[106]
In 2007, higher incentives for farmers to grow non-food biofuel crops[107] combined with other factors (such as rising transportation costs, climate change, growing consumer demand in China and India, and population growth)[108] to cause food shortages in Asia, the Middle East, Africa, and Mexico, as well as rising food prices around the globe.[109][110] As of December 2007, 37 countries faced food crises, and 20 had imposed some sort of food-price controls. Some of these shortages resulted in food riots and even deadly stampedes.[111][112][113]
See also: Food security, Food vs fuel, and 2007–2008 world food price crisis



Flood defense
For historical reasons to do with trade, many of the world's largest and most prosperous cities are on the coast, and the cost of building better coastal defenses (due to the rising sea level) is likely to be considerable. Some countries will be more affected than others—low-lying countries such as Bangladesh and the Netherlands would be worst hit by any sea level rise, in terms of floods or the cost of preventing them. Still, in 180 of 192 littoral countries worldwide, coastal protection will cost less than 0.1% of the country's gross domestic product.[114]
In developing countries, the poorest often live on flood plains, because it is the only available space, or fertile agricultural land. These settlements often lack infrastructure such as dykes and early warning systems. Poorer communities also tend to lack the insurance, savings or access to credit needed to recover from disasters.[115]

Migration
Some Pacific Ocean island nations, such as Tuvalu, are concerned about the possibility of an eventual evacuation, as flood defense may become economically unviable for them. Tuvalu already has an ad hoc agreement with New Zealand to allow phased relocation.[116]
In the 1990s a variety of estimates placed the number of environmental refugees at around 25 million. (Environmental refugees are not included in the official definition of refugees, which only includes migrants fleeing persecution.) The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), which advises the world’s governments under the auspices of the UN, estimated that 150 million environmental refugees will exist in the year 2050, due mainly to the effects of coastal flooding, shoreline erosion and agricultural disruption (150 million means 1.5% of 2050’s predicted 10 billion world population).[117][118]

Northwest Passage

Arctic ice thicknesses changes from 1950s to 2050s simulated in one of GFDL's R30 atmosphere-ocean general circulation model experiments
Melting Arctic ice may open the Northwest Passage in summer, which would cut 5,000 nautical miles (9,000 km) from shipping routes between Europe and Asia. This would be of particular benefit for supertankers which are too big to fit through the Panama Canal and currently have to go around the tip of South America. According to the Canadian Ice Service, the amount of ice in Canada's eastern Arctic Archipelago decreased by 15% between 1969 and 2004.[119]

In September 2007, the Arctic Ice Cap retreated far enough for the Northwest Passage to become navigable to shipping for the first time in recorded history.[120]
In August, 2008, melting sea ice simultaneously opened up the Northwest Passage and the Northern Sea Route, making it possible to sail around the Arctic ice cap. Scientists estimate that this hasn't happened in 125,000 years.[121] The Northwest Passage opened August 25, 2008, and the remaining tongue of ice blocking the Northern Sea Route dissolved a few days later. Because of arctic shrinkage, the Beluga group of Bremen, Germany, announced plans to send the first ship through the Northern Sea Route in 2009.[122]

Development
The combined effects of global warming may have particularly harsh effects on people and countries without the resources to mitigate those effects. This may slow economic development and poverty reduction, and make it harder to achieve the Millennium Development Goals.[123]
In October 2004 the Working Group on Climate Change and Development, a coalition of development and environment NGOs, issued a report Up in Smoke on the effects of climate change on development. This report, and the July 2005 report Africa - Up in Smoke? predicted increased hunger and disease due to decreased rainfall and severe weather events, particularly in Africa. These are likely to have severe impacts on development for those affected.

Conclusion
Conclusion of global warming
The bottom line it is coming (if not already here) and we have to figure out what we can do. Waters rising will be a disaster, food will be affected and we gotta plan for catastrophies like katrina. This is gonna hit everyone, not just the poor or the democrats or the catholics--we're all in a heap of trouble and the sooner we accept this FACT. We should put serious effort to overcome the problems due to it. We must try our best to solve the problem and strive as much as possible to reinstate our earth for sake of future generation.